Standing in the desert on golden earth, the sun created shadows all around me. In the distance I could see a glowing strip of ocean, it looked like sunlight dancing off the water. If I reached out far enough I could swear my fingers were caressing the soft ocean waves. I lowered my arm and ran my fingertips along the crumbly limestone growths that jutted out of the earth, and I marvelled at the stories they had to tell. The curves carefully formed from winds so free they could twirl and swirl and dance to their hearts content. These intricate shapes, these stunning feminine curves and jagged razor edges that all live together, and harmonise within this space. What a gift.
The Pinnacles are roughly two hours out of Perth. About one and a half hours from where we have lived since forever, and one of those natural wonders that makes you gasp and really fall in love with nature, history, evolution and the wonderful systemic way life has of functioning.
The Pinnacles is the place I would speak of to demonstrate the rut we used to live in, before we moved overseas and discovered what it meant to feel awake to our surroundings. A magical desert wonder, a simple day trip from our house and we not once, not ever, went to visit. We lived in that ‘oh one day’ world of mowing lawns, doing laundry and tending to study, careers, gardens, babies…
Moving back to Perth from the Philippines I was determined not to return to that world. I wanted to continue to live as we had overseas, with purpose, making best use of every moment that we could. Living each day knowing it was all so temporary.
To be honest though, it has been hard. The drudgery of daily life has weighed me down and made me feel suffocated. We took this trip at just the right time, helping to reignite my desire and passion for life, and it did the same for the rest of the family.
About the Pinnacles
Located in the Nambung National Park, the Pinnacles are just South of Cervantes, a small seaside town.
The Pinnacles are ancient structures that sit on around 190 hectares, and about 60 meters above sea level. Some structures are up to 5 meters tall, and come in all shapes and sizes. They rise out of the desert ground, sitting upright surrounded by sand dunes and the endless sky, and they are just a marvel to see. This is a must-do visit when you come to Western Australia. You can book a tour to drive you there, but for me the best way to travel is in your own in your car. Not only is it cheaper, but this way you have total control over where you stop, and for how long.
Getting There
Driving up that way, make sure you take the Coral Coast Highway. If you have time, you can stop in at any of the little seaside towns on the way for a look-see. Guilderton has the Moore River, where the ocean meets the river mouth. and Lancelin is another great stop with beautiful beaches to swim, snorkel and surf at.
As you get closer to Cervantes the sand dunes rise up out of nowhere on either side of the road. The way the powdery white sand meets the tough green bush is really cool, and when it is windy you watch the sand blowing in great swirls across the dunes, literally changing the shape of them in front of your eyes. The sand blows over everything – the shrubbery and even over the road you drive on. The children had their faces pinned to the glass in awe as they watched this spectacle.
Be sure to get out of the car and get up and close with the Pinnacles. Gently run your fingertips along the limestone and feel the texture. Be amazed by the millions of years represented here.
When you arrive at the Pinnacles you pay an entrance fee which gives you access to the discovery centre, if you wish to read more about the history of this area. It also gives you access to the 4km loop-road along which you slowly drive along, stopping along the way to walk amongst the pinnacles and get up close with them. You can then stay and continue driving around the road as long as you want to until after sunset.
The best time to see the pinnacles is late afternoon and into dusk and sunset. This is when the sunlight makes the limestone glow and the colour is amazing. You will get your best photographs at this time of day as the sunshine glare is not so, well, glary.
Here are my tips for a successful trip to The Pinnacles
*** Remember to leave only footprints!!
- Pack a picnic and plenty of water.
- Plan to arrive late afternoon. The discovery centre closes at 4.30pm so if you want to check that out, perhaps get there for 3.30pm or 4pm.
- Drive slowly around the loop, stopping regularly. When you get out of the car, make sure you walk out into the desert. The further you walk, the more you discover and it is spectacular. (just don’t get lost!!)
- Take note of where some good sunset locations would be to stop and when the time comes drive back and enjoy your picnic (in your car) before sitting out amongst the pinnacles to watch the glory of sunset.
- As we have kids and it was a long day, we freshened up at the amenities block and got the kids changed into fresh clothes before driving home. That way the kids could be carried straight to bed without much disruption.
- You could have a weekend away and visit Cervantes or any of the other small fishing towns in the area.
Our next trip to the Pinnacles will be soon, during the Spring, when the wildflowers are in full bloom. I expect to see a most extraordinary show of Mother Nature.
Cervantes
Cervantes is the coastal town near the Pinnacles. There is a lot you can do here, from adventurous action ocean fun and skydiving, to snorkelling, swimming or wandering around town to learn about their history through the interactive sculptures dotted around the streets. The campgrounds are very good if you want to stay the night.
Lake Thetis
A short trip from Cervantes is Lake Thetis. Almost 5000 years ago the lake separated from the sea, and became its own little ecosystem. And whether you do a day trip to the pinnacles, or spend the night in Cervantes, you should try to check this place out.
Lake Thetis is where you see these really fascinating growths called thrombolites. Basically, the micro-organisms that build these round structures represent the earliest life forms on earth. This is one of the few places left in the world where they still live and it provides scientists the opportunity to study the earth’s history and figure out how it all came to be.
There is a walk around the river, which is about 1.5 kilometres, however if you don’t fancy that, the first hundred meters offers information and a viewing platform to take in the lake and the thrombolites.
Details
Where: The Pinnacles, near Cervantes about 250km from Perth WA up the Coral Coast Highway. There is plenty of signage.
When: Open 9.30-4.30 daily
Cost: Check the website for up to date prices, but at the time of writing it is $13 AUS per car.
Please Note: No pets, camping, or fires within the park.