It is so hot, as it should be… coming here when wet would be dangerous. But then you step down and disappear into the forest. The canopy of trees provides shelter from the harsh sunlight, and dapples of light sprinkle through, dancing on the world beneath. The distant sound of water fills the heavy hot air almost immediately on descent, and it is hypnotic. As you stumble under the canopy of trees and step carefully down makeshift stairs of rock, tree roots and footholds cut into dry cracked mud, you feel as if maybe you have entered Alice’s wonderland. We take delight in the insects singing and flying around. A crazy black beast with shiny cobalt blue wings captivates BB as we stop to try and get a closer look, and FB cries out ‘Mum! Look up! It’s beautiful!’

At the end of the pathway you must walk between two upright rocks. Covered in green lush moss and lichen, the glow of the sunlight through the crevice is so bright you squint and wonder if you are going to walk through and into another time, another world…but just before you do step through, take a moment. Prepare yourself for what lies around the corner, catch your breath and then step out. My goodness you will be so glad that you did.

Enormous falls crash down off green mossy rocks, falling effortlessly. The water sprays create rainbows in the light and small birds dart around the area catching water droplets as they go.

A rocky outcroft, wet and green with life provides shelter for your picnic and crude bamboo taps are set up, allowing you to drink the fresh, cool water straight off the mountain. The children delighted in this and filled their little hands over and over, splashes of fresh water cooling their hot faces.

This is paradise found

The children swam and played with the giant bamboo log attached to the rocks with rope. They would pull it into the rocks then jump on it to float back out into the deep. Then they were delighted to discover the small freshwater shrimp hanging from the sides of the rocks, and tried unsuccessfully, to catch them.

I wandered around taking photographs, trying to capture this forever on my memory, never wanting to leave. I could not stop staring at these magnificent falls!

Hulugan Falls are relatively new, opening to tourism October 2015. They stand at 285 feet and the basin at its deepest is 22 feet. There are shallow parts though and it is very suitable for children to swim. There were life vests available should they be needed but I would recommend taking your own for the kids if they need them. The water is clean, with just a sprinkling of leaves fallen from the overhanging trees, floating like little boats on the water. I loved watching the soft silky seeds of the trees floating through the air, coming to land on wet rocks. I felt kind of sorry for them, that their dance-like display of dispersion suddenly ends in the wrong kind of place for them to set root.

We had our picnic, and as we chowed down on our ham and salad rolls and guava juice I scoffed at SB’s initial choice to eat at a restaurant we quite liked down this way. How can you get better than this? I asked, and he said you can’t.

Soon it was time to leave which none of us was in any way interested in doing. We kept stopping, looking around and sighing loudly, that sad, knowing sigh that we may never be here again.

The drive home was uneventful, troubled only with extra heavy traffic. We stopped roadside to buy sweet corn, freshly cooked and as SB came back into the car, it filled with the delicious smoke of the coconut husk fires, and the sweet juicy perfume of the corn. Another memory to burn into our minds before we leave this adopted home of ours.

Details 

Where: Hulugan Falls

Directions by private car: Go south on the SLEX, take the Calamba exit. From the toll gate turn left onto the National Hwy going to Sta Cruz. Drive through Pagsanjan and past these falls, go through Cavinti until you reach Brgy San Salvador. You will see a steet well signed for Hulugan Falls. It’s all on Waze. Stop at the Brgy Hall to pick up a guide who will take you to the carpark and registration location. Take a trike to the drop-off point, which is about a two-minute ride.

Cost Breakdown

Parking: 30p

Registration: 30p per person

Trike: 50p each way (family of 4 plus guide)

Guide Fee: They won’t tell you, it is up to you to decide what they are worth. We are always unsure of what is considered reasonable, too cheap or too much so our standard cost is 500p.

Apparently you can take your dog…personally I wouldn’t on this trip, but that’s just me. Make sure if you do you clean up and leave only paw-prints. Same goes for you and your rubbish!

Extra Tips 

If you go after rain or in wet season, be very careful. The path is extremely steep and will be really slippery due to the rocks and mud. Best time to go is when it is dry. Especially if you are taking children. The falls won’t be as heavy, the water won’t be churned up. Wear reliable shoes. I wore my ‘pretty’ thongs (the only unbroken pair I own now, and I thought they’d be okay) and nearly went arse over tit a few times because they lacked grip and the rocks around the falls are wet and slippery.

The path is steep, uneven and you have to use the railings and anything else you can hold onto for balance. If you have back problems, or are not in reasonable fitness please be aware, and be careful. I am not one to say don’t do something – you are an adult, you can decide what is okay for you, just be careful. There is simple rock climbing at the falls to get across to them.

There are two other falls you can walk to, but don’t leave it too late in the day – we did and missed out, now we need to find time to go back again.

Leave early, this is a long drive. We left at 6.30am, but traffic was awful for some reason. I suggest leaving 6am. Then you can enjoy your time and get there before the crowds.

Take food and water. There is a small sari-sari at the top of the walk track but they don’t sell meals. Your guide will carry your stuff for you and help with the kids so don’t worry too much.

Take bathers, suncream, hats, and towels to sit on so your bum doesn’t get too wet – unless you are swimming of course. You may want to use your towels as a discreet changeroom too – that’s my tip, but there is a large rock behind which you can very well get changed.

Watch your head! I smashed my head going to the water taps – just thought I’d mention it, it really hurt.