The heat is sticky. Rivulets of water run down my face, my neck, my chest and it tickles. I pull at my clothing trying to feel comfortable and I brush sticky hair off my face. This is hot. I’ve experienced this tropical summer heat before and I didn’t like it then and I sure as hell don’t like it now, but this place, this place is paradise…And that makes it kind of okay.

Serendipity: ser·en·dip·i·ty – the occurrence and development of events by chance in a happy or beneficial way (Oxford Dictionary).

Do you believe in serendipity? I do, and that is how we found Modessa Island, a serendipitous moment in time. I had something, a special gift for a stranger, who became an instant friend, who in turn, led us here.

Pale turquoise water glistens like gemstones, the waters perfectly calm. Soft lapping waves toy with small crabs that scamper about on the stone wall. I turn my attention for just a moment, and I watch as two crabs have a turf war. The bigger crab won that battle.

The sky is so blue it hurts my own blue eyes, it makes me squint. I raise my hand to shield them, to lessen the impact and as I do I instinctively wipe the film of sweat off my brow, droplets of water splash to the ground as I flick my hand in agitation.

The sand is like baby powder and I feel like it is here, that I have found perfection. I finish taking photographs and cannot hold off any longer. I make my way to our cottage, roughly pulling on my swimmers over hot, sticky skin. I feel frustrated it is taking so long and the sweat is pouring down my spine, driving me crazy.

Then I go in. Stepping lightly into the shallows and the water is warm like a bath, which kind of surprises me. I walk out further and the water gets deeper and slightly darker; it becomes cooler and it is here that I lower myself in. And, I succumb. Body and soul are now gone to the ocean for as long as I can make this last. I lay back floating in this womb, my ears filled with water and that rushing sound it creates. I feel my flaming red hair float away off my scalp weightless around me, and my eyes are closed. All the sounds on the outside are muffled yet I can hear the children’s happy noise close by. And right now in this moment I need time to stop.

Modessa Island is a small 7-hectare island in Palawan. It is part of the municipality of Roxas and relatively unknown from the popular touristy places nearby. So if you are looking for a safe haven, away from the crowds, check this place out. It is very easy to get to, just fly into Puerto Princessa from Manila, then get a ride up to the port in Roxas, and meet the banka which takes guests over once a day at 2pm. Modessa Island Resort can organise a car for you to make sure you make it on time, or you can catch a bus up. Just make sure you allow a good couple of hours. A note here, the cost of vans/cars is expensive. We paid 3000p one way, it was an air-conditioned van, but very expensive.

We only had a narrow strip of time to make best use of holiday and so we flew into Puerto Princessa Friday night, arriving around 9.30pm. We stayed at the charming little hotel called The Purple Fountain Inn. An eclectic display of art and old world charm with bright pops of colour thrown in. A sweet courtyard to explore sat central to the rooms which opened out to it. Our room was neat, clean, there was hot water, good water pressure, the staff were all lovely and helpful, and for one night it was good value.

We were picked up in a van at 8am, wanting to make a day out of our travels. We rushed this trip, having spent most of the week trying to find places last minute for a long weekend. Everywhere was either booked out or flights weren’t available. This was such a chance encounter and it all came together. But since Palawan was not on our list of places, our planning was really disorganised and we were winging it most of the way.

We set off and found ourselves driving through gorgeous green hills and valleys which reminded us a little of home. After about an hour and a half, stopped at the Olanguan Falls in the Barangay of Binduyan. The drop off point is very easy to find, as it is not only on Google Maps, it is well signed. These falls are an eco-tourism project and really well done, definitely worth stopping for a visit if you are in the area.

By 2pm we had made it to a small restaurant on the water where we waited until we were picked up in a trike and taken to the boat, ready for departure. The ride takes about 45 minutes, drifting past small islands and out into the open blue. You wonder where you are headed and then in the distance a tiny island appears on the horizon. That is Modessa Island.

Life on Modessa Island is pretty simple, and the charm of the bamboo and nipa buildings sitting on water’s edge is a delight. An eclectic range of styles, the huts sit in rows, lined with coconut husks. Neat gardens guide the pathways inbetween buildings and hammocks hang lazily between coconut palms.

The main building is split level, its various entry and exit points make for an excellent game of discovery. Beach themed quotes line walls, exposed beams have shells hanging off them, and the restaurant floor creaks underfoot as you walk, while the resort dog sleeps off the heat. It feels like something out of a movie. A games room houses a pool table and dart board, outside is a volleyball net. Next door, on the ground floor of a tower is the ping pong table. Climb the stairs to a second and third level where you can sit for hours, staring out at the perfect waters with the mountains of Palawan, pale blue in the distance.

Our room is basic but comfortable. Electricity is by generator and only on between 6pm and 8am. But really, why would you need it during the day? There is no reason to be in your hut when you have perfection as you step outside the door. There is WIFI and mobile coverage, bringing the outside in, for those who cannot live without connection. There is no air conditioning, but a ceiling fan gives us comfort and a pedestal fan offers support. The power ebbs and flows like an ocean current and the fan beats fast then slow and then not at all for brief and sporadic power outs. We slept with our door and windows open to let any small breeze flow through. There is only cold water here, but in this heat it really doesn’t matter. The showers are salt water, which is one of the disappointments for this resort. However there is a free water, tea and coffee station at your disposal, and so you can refill water bottles to pour over your salt covered skin for a cleansing wash. It really is manageable. I took wet wipes to help clean our skin from the salt assault.

Dusk settles. The heat is insatiable and the insects start to sing. The air is calm but electricity bounces off molecules, and over on the distant mountains we see storm clouds. We sit in the tower, watching an electrical storm put on a show as one of the guests sitting by the water strums his guitar. The sound of pool cues hitting balls is heard behind us and the occasional Tuko Gecko sings. The coconut palms creak and moan under their loads. Even as the heat is clinging to my skin and sweat beads fall one after the other, I feel like this is paradise to me. An ever so slight breeze makes my wet skin tingle and the cold beer slides easily down my throat.

Later that night, with the children sound asleep, we sat at water’s edge drinking beer, listening to fish jump out of the water and watching the ongoing electrical storm across on Palawan. The star filled sky is so bright here, and it is just another wonder of this place.

Before sunrise the air is cool and crisp. I got up early to walk around the island, it takes only 20-40 minutes depending on how slow you are and how often you stop, which I did a bit of to take photos.  It was so silent, so calm, so pristine. As the sun rose higher it became hotter and I was thinking I should turn back when I found myself in front of buildings. ‘Oh they have buildings on the other side of the island’ I thought to myself, until I realised I was back at the resort – that is how small it is.

That afternoon we took a small boat out to a nearby sandbar, just for a look-see and we got there as local fishermen were pulling in a net filled with tiny shiny silver fish. They sorted through the fish with family members looking on, and FB and BB were excited to find baby cuttlefish they released back into the ocean.

The rest of our time on the island was spent dozing in the hammock, snorkelling, swimming, and the kids loved to play darts, ping pong and volleyball. If you so desire you can use the paddle boards, take an island hopping tour, or go diving, as there is a dive shop on site.

The morning we left, we were able to catch the early boat back to the mainland, it left at 8am, and a van was waiting to pick us up and drive us back to Puerto Princessa, ready for our flight home. ‘Over the Rainbow’ played on the speakers as we were departing and I did not want to leave.

Notes

Contact Modessa Island Resort direct to book and make arrangements. They are very responsive.

If you want to take time to visit the underwater lake near Puerta Princessa, it is best to book in advance. We could not get permits. Be wary of tour companies that are doing the wrong thing by visitors by taking their money and then not turning up. You can arrange to visit yourself, you just need to get the permits and hire a van, which most hotels can help you with. You can also hire motorbikes and scooters from various locations.

Before flying out, we had a wonderful meal at the restaurant called Xa Inato. It is an initiative to help the deaf find employment, the ambience is gorgeous and the food is really delicious, well priced too. So, be sure to check it out if you are in Puerto Princessa.